Walking Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage: Eighty-Eight Temples and the Pilgrim's Inner Circle
Explore the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a transformative journey intertwining physical endurance with spiritual growth across Japan's sacred sites.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is a 750-mile circular journey across Japan's smallest main island, Shikoku. It connects 88 Buddhist temples and takes most pilgrims 35–60 days to complete on foot. This ancient route is both physically demanding and spiritually enriching, symbolizing the Buddhist cycle of life, death, and rebirth. Along the way, pilgrims reflect on their lives, cleanse attachments tied to 88 earthly desires, and experience personal transformation.
Key Highlights:
- Distance: ~750 miles (~1,200 km), covering Shikoku's 4 prefectures: Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa.
- Stages: Awakening, Discipline, Enlightenment, Nirvana.
- Modes of Travel:
- On foot: 35–60 days
- Bicycle: 9–12 days
- Car/public transport: 8–10 days
- Bus tour: 12–13 days
- Spiritual Practices: Visiting temples, chanting, lighting candles, and collecting calligraphy stamps.
- Costs: Temple stamps: $1.35–$3.35 per temple; Completion certificate: ~$13.35.
This journey is not just a physical trek but a path of inner growth. Pilgrims often return home with a clearer mind, deeper insights, and a renewed perspective on life.
Historical and Spiritual Foundations
Kobo Daishi and the Pilgrimage Origins
The roots of the Shikoku pilgrimage stretch back over 1,200 years, tied to the life and teachings of Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), a revered Buddhist monk who lived from 774 to 835. Born on Shikoku, within the grounds of Temple 75, Zentsuji, Kobo Daishi is celebrated as the founder of Shingon Buddhism. His profound influence laid the spiritual groundwork for what would become this iconic pilgrimage.
The pilgrimage route is believed to trace the paths where Kobo Daishi trained and meditated during the 9th century. The 88 official temples, along with countless other sacred sites scattered across Shikoku, are deeply connected to his journey and teachings. For modern-day pilgrims, this connection feels deeply personal. The wooden staff many carry is said to represent Kobo Daishi himself, symbolically guiding and accompanying them along the route. This enduring legacy continues to shape the pilgrimage’s significance.
How the Pilgrimage Changed Over Time
What began as an elite monastic practice has transformed into a journey open to anyone seeking spiritual growth. Initially, the pilgrimage served as a rigorous path for Buddhist monks, combining physical endurance with spiritual discipline to achieve enlightenment.
By the 16th century, the route became more formalized, linking the 88 temples across Shikoku’s four provinces. An additional 20 "alternate" temples were also included. This development made the pilgrimage more accessible to laypeople, including merchants, farmers, and others from all walks of life. Over time, the pilgrimage evolved from an exclusive spiritual discipline to a path that welcomed anyone in search of meaning, reflection, or connection.
Sacred Geometry and the Mandala of Shikoku
The circular nature of the Shikoku pilgrimage embodies profound Buddhist philosophies. In Shingon Buddhism, mandalas serve as symbolic maps of the universe, representing the interconnectedness of all things. The Womb World Mandala, central to Shingon thought, reflects this worldview, portraying the Buddha as the macrocosm and the practitioner as the microcosm. Pilgrims engage with these ideas through visualization, chanting, and sacred hand gestures, while the pilgrimage route itself acts as a living, breathing mandala.
Shikoku’s four prefectures - Tokushima (Awa), Kochi (Tosa), Ehime (Iyo), and Kagawa (Sanuki) - mirror the stages of spiritual development: awakening the mind, self-discipline, enlightenment, and nirvana . This arrangement transforms the entire island into a sacred space, where each step mirrors an inner spiritual journey.
The mandala concept even extends beyond the main pilgrimage route. For example, the Sakushima Kobo Project restored 88 small shrines (hokora) on Sakushima Island. One shrine uniquely combines square and circular designs, directly referencing mandala symbolism. The project also draws from Kobo Daishi’s teaching: “As my heart like the sky, as my heart like the ocean”. In this way, the 750-mile route becomes more than just a physical journey - it’s a spiritual map that pilgrims walk through, experience, and ultimately embody, enriching their connection to this ancient path.
THE 88 TEMPLES PILGRIMAGE IN SHIKOKU JAPAN: A Comprehensive Guide
The Pilgrimage as an Inner Journey
The Shikoku pilgrimage isn’t just about covering miles; it’s a journey of self-discovery. Each step along the route becomes a kind of meditation, peeling back layers of the inner self. As pilgrims traverse Shikoku's varied landscapes - winding coastal paths, rugged mountain trails, and serene countryside - they often experience profound personal transformation. This journey unfolds through the pilgrimage's four distinct stages, each tied to one of Shikoku's prefectures.
4 Prefectures as Stages of Awakening
The route through Shikoku’s four prefectures mirrors the Buddhist path to enlightenment, offering a structured way to reflect on the inner changes that occur along the way.
-
Tokushima (Temples 1–23): Awakening
This stage represents a break from the ordinary. Stepping away from daily life, pilgrims begin to quiet their minds and open themselves to new perspectives. -
Kochi (Temples 24–39): Discipline
Covering the pilgrimage's longest and most demanding stretches, this stage calls for perseverance and commitment, challenging both body and spirit. -
Ehime (Temples 40–65): Enlightenment
Insights begin to crystallize here. Pilgrims often find clarity and peace as they move through this phase, reflecting on past experiences with newfound understanding. -
Kagawa (Temples 66–88): Nirvana
The final stage is about integration. Lessons from the journey come full circle as pilgrims prepare to carry their insights back into everyday life.
These stages provide a framework for understanding how the pilgrimage fosters personal growth, with each temple adding depth to the transformative process.
Temples as Guides on the Inner Path
The 88 temples along the Shikoku route serve as both physical markers and spiritual waystations, offering opportunities for reflection and practice. Each temple invites pilgrims to engage directly with their journey, prioritizing lived experience over abstract thought. As Hatakeda Yuho, the head monk of Anraku-ji, puts it:
"People come to Shikoku to find new paths. On a pilgrimage, you step away from the day-to-day to clear your mind and refresh your thinking."
The temples themselves vary widely, from bustling urban sites to secluded mountain sanctuaries. This diversity mirrors the inner work undertaken by pilgrims. Despite these differences, the rituals performed at each temple provide a consistent structure, helping participants process the emotions and insights that arise.
How Rituals Create Transformation
The rituals performed at each temple are more than symbolic; they’re tools for real psychological and emotional growth. Simple acts like washing hands at the purification station or ringing the temple bell serve as resets, grounding pilgrims in the present moment.
Other rituals engage the senses even more deeply. Lighting candles, burning incense, and chanting the Heart Sutra create a multisensory experience that bypasses overthinking, allowing the ritual to work on a deeper, instinctive level. Collecting calligraphy stamps from each temple, which cost between ¥200 and ¥500 ($1.35–$3.35), adds a tangible sense of progress. Each stamp becomes a small victory, a reminder of how far the pilgrim has come and how much there is still to discover.
Modern Approaches to the Pilgrimage
Today's pilgrims blend centuries-old reverence with modern practicality. While the spiritual essence remains the same, advancements in technology and transportation have introduced new ways to undertake this sacred journey. The challenge lies in striking a balance - embracing convenience without losing the transformative essence of the pilgrimage.
Walking, Cycling, or Bus Tours: Choosing Your Path
Walking has long been the most immersive way to experience the pilgrimage, offering a profound connection to the journey's spiritual roots. Covering the entire route on foot takes 35–60 days, allowing for deep reflection and a slower pace that aligns with the pilgrimage's meditative nature. As Tomoko Imaizumi, a guide who has completed the pilgrimage four times, puts it:
"When I walk, I sometimes think too much, but I keep walking, and then I think of nothing - in a good way."
For those seeking a middle ground, cycling has become increasingly popular. It shortens the journey to about 9–12 days while still offering close encounters with Shikoku's stunning coastal and mountain landscapes. Motorized options, such as cars, taxis, or public transportation, provide alternatives for those with limited time or physical challenges.
| Mode of Transport | Time to Complete |
|---|---|
| On foot | 35–60 days |
| By bicycle | 9–12 days |
| By car | 9–10 days |
| By taxi/public transportation | 8–9 days |
| By bus tour | 12–13 days |
Some seasoned pilgrims take on the reverse pilgrimage, or gyaku-uchi, starting at Temple 88 and journeying back to Temple 1. This route is considered more challenging due to the lack of directional markers and guides.
Gear and Tools for Modern Pilgrims
Modern pilgrims combine traditional items with contemporary tools to enhance their journey. Essentials like the white vestments, staff, and stamp book maintain a deep connection to the pilgrimage's history. At each temple, pilgrims collect calligraphic stamps, and upon completing the circuit, they can receive the "kechi-gan-shō" certificate at Temple 88 for ¥2,000 (roughly $13.35).
Footwear is one of the most critical considerations. Seasoned guides stress the importance of shoes that provide both grip for steep trails and comfort for long stretches on asphalt.
Technology has also become a valuable companion. GPS apps, local SIM cards, and digital guides like the Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide make navigating the 1,200-kilometer route much easier. Power banks (at least 10,000 mAh) keep devices charged, and headlamps are essential for early-morning temple visits or navigating dark tunnels. Many pilgrims adopt a minimalist packing strategy to ensure they can carry their belongings comfortably.
Mixing Old Practices with New Methods
Modern tools have streamlined the pilgrimage without overshadowing its spiritual essence. Many pilgrims split the journey into segments to fit their schedules while still engaging in meaningful reflection.
Digital platforms like Booking.com and Rakuten make accommodation planning easier, while services like Henro House offer affordable lodging designed specifically for pilgrims. Online cost calculators also help with budgeting, ensuring the journey remains accessible.
While technology aids in planning and documenting the experience, many pilgrims set boundaries to ensure their devices don't detract from the journey's spiritual focus. Respect for tradition remains at the heart of the pilgrimage. As Shikoku-based researcher David Moreton notes:
"Buddhism is more a way of life than a religion that tells you what you can or can't do. However, showing respect is important."
This respect is also reflected in the practice of purchasing traditional pilgrimage items directly from Shikoku's temples. Doing so supports local communities and reinforces the connection to the pilgrimage's roots. For many, stepping away from their devices allows them to rediscover the ancient rhythm of walking, chanting, and quiet reflection.
Psychological and Spiritual Changes
The Shikoku pilgrimage has a profound impact on how people think, feel, and see themselves. These changes unfold slowly through the rhythm of walking, the repetition of rituals, and the quiet moments of reflection between temple visits.
How the Pilgrimage Affects the Mind
Walking 1,200 kilometers over several weeks reshapes the mind. The steady pace and reflective pauses at temples interrupt habitual thought patterns, encouraging mindfulness. As pilgrims immerse themselves in the journey, they begin to see the world - and themselves - differently. Dr. Jaeyeon Choe, a Lecturer in Tourism and Events at Glasgow Caledonian University, highlights this growing trend:
"Spiritual travel is becoming more popular as an alternative way for people to address mental health issues."
The pilgrimage’s structured stages offer a clear path for understanding and embracing inner transformation. Studies reveal that completing the journey can reduce stress and depressive symptoms by 20% to 50%, while significantly boosting happiness and overall life satisfaction. Many describe the experience as "a walking meditation on impermanence", where the ever-changing scenery fosters emotional resilience and acceptance.
These mental shifts often lead to moments of profound spiritual insight along the way.
Synchronicities and Spiritual Insights Along the Way
Pilgrims frequently recount experiences of meaningful coincidences and moments of clarity during their journey. Encounters with fellow travelers, acts of generosity from locals through osettai (gift-giving), and shared moments of kindness create a deep sense of connection and community. A large number of pilgrims report experiencing spiritual breakthroughs during the pilgrimage. These moments often occur during challenging times - whether climbing steep paths or enduring harsh weather - prompting a renewed sense of self and purpose.
Returning Home: Using the Pilgrimage Experience
As pilgrims gain mental clarity and spiritual insights, the challenge lies in bringing these lessons into their daily lives. Returning home often requires finding ways to sustain the sense of purpose and mindfulness cultivated on the trail. Many do so by adopting new rituals, like daily walks, mindfulness exercises, or practicing gratitude, which mirror the transformative practices of the pilgrimage. The British Pilgrimage Trust captures this idea perfectly:
"Walking is for the body, pilgrimage for the soul."
The pilgrimage engages individuals on multiple levels - physical, emotional, social, and spiritual. Dr. Guy Hayward of the British Pilgrimage Trust offers this advice:
"You set your destination and intention, and then you walk."
Even small changes - finding joy in walking, appreciating acts of kindness, or becoming more patient - can lead to lasting personal growth and well-being.
Conclusion: Completing the Circle
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is more than just a trek across 750 miles of sacred ground - it’s a journey that intertwines physical endurance with profound inner growth. Unlike a straight path, this circular route brings pilgrims back to their starting point, but with a renewed outlook. This return isn’t merely geographical; it represents a deep internal shift.
The circular nature of the pilgrimage reflects the cycles of life itself - periods of challenge, renewal, and transformation. As pilgrims travel through the four prefectures symbolizing awakening, discipline, enlightenment, and nirvana, they walk through a living mandala of self-discovery. Matthew Iannarone captures this essence perfectly:
"The henro forms a circle, whereas the Road to Santiago is a straight line... walking the henro is a special, profound experience, and deeply religious."
This circular journey offers something unique - the chance to return home with a fresh perspective. Spanning 40 to 50 days on foot, completing the pilgrimage leaves many with a sense of spiritual cleansing and an unmatched feeling of accomplishment. Its magic lies in the rhythm of walking, reflecting, and evolving with each step.
For many, the pilgrimage doesn’t end at the finish line. Its magnetic pull often draws pilgrims back, each journey deepening their personal growth. As one pilgrim shared with Oliver Statler:
"The pilgrimage is addictive… This circuit around Shikoku will pull me back to try again. And again. It is a striving, and that goes on. The true value lies not in the destination, but in the journey itself. The Path is the goal itself."
In a world dominated by constant distractions, the Shikoku pilgrimage offers a rare opportunity to disconnect and reconnect - both with oneself and the world. Hatakeda Yuho, head monk at Anraku-ji, describes it as a chance to "step away from the day-to-day to clear your mind and refresh your thinking".
Ultimately, the pilgrimage’s true power lies not in reaching its end, but in the courage to begin. Each step reflects an inward journey, embodying the timeless cycle of renewal that defines this sacred path.
FAQs
What spiritual practices do pilgrims follow on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage?
Pilgrims embarking on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage participate in rituals that weave together centuries-old traditions with moments of personal reflection. At each temple, they bow and offer prayers, expressing gratitude and seeking blessings. Lighting candles and incense is another common gesture, honoring the Buddha and the temple’s deities while creating a serene moment of connection.
A notable practice is circumambulation - walking around sacred objects or the temple grounds. This act symbolizes respect and devotion, offering a quiet yet profound way to engage with the sacred space. The pilgrimage itself is more than just a physical journey; it’s an opportunity for spiritual growth. As they traverse the path, pilgrims often pause for meditation and introspection, deepening their connection to both their inner selves and the divine.
How has the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage become more accessible to people from different backgrounds?
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage has evolved over time to embrace participants from all backgrounds. Once a spiritual endeavor primarily undertaken by Shingon Buddhist monks, it now draws a wide range of people - from international tourists to those seeking personal insight or a deeper connection to Japanese traditions.
Thanks to modern conveniences, the pilgrimage is more accessible than ever. With buses and cars available, participants no longer need to walk the full 750-mile route to take part. Organized tours and customizable itineraries further adapt to different schedules and physical capacities, making it possible for more people to engage with the journey's spiritual and cultural significance. The circular layout of the route adds another layer of flexibility, allowing pilgrims to begin and end their experience in a way that works best for them.
What modern tools and technologies can enhance the experience of walking the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage?
Modern pilgrims tackling the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage often turn to modern tools and technologies to make their journey more manageable and rewarding. For navigation and planning, apps like Henro no Akari are incredibly helpful. They offer detailed maps, step-by-step directions, and comprehensive temple information. On top of that, they include features like creating personalized pilgrimage albums and alerting users to nearby points of interest.
For those who need physical assistance, devices like robotic exoskeletons are game-changers. These tools can ease walking fatigue by improving gait and mobility, making the 750-mile trek more accessible, particularly for older pilgrims. Digital resources such as gear checklist apps and online guides also play a key role in helping participants prepare thoroughly, ensuring they’re well-equipped for the journey.
These modern advancements complement the traditional essence of the pilgrimage, making it both practical and deeply meaningful for today’s travelers.
